Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.